Poor Man’s Hajj

Pilgrims to Humaithera gather and prepare their truck for the trip at the transportation hub of Edfu, Aswan. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Sheikh Mohamed Taha decorates his car with palm leaves, posters of Sufi monks and loudspeakers. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

On the way to Humaithera, pilgrims carry food and water, as well as animals to slaughter, to imitate pilgrims to Mecca. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Pilgrims to Humaithera Valley usually rest for a picnic or to ease themselves on the side of the highway, since there are not many facilities on the 300 kilometer journey. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Upon arriving at Humaithera valley, pilgrims put up their tents. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Considering the heat of Egypt, no one can reject the offer of free cold water. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Ali Thabet, who came from Qena, he says, “I know many people who used to attend the Mulid in the past years, but they couldn’t attend this year because of their financial status, everything is so expensive now.” (H. Elrasam/VOA)

The shrine of Abu Al-Hassan Al-Shazly is the Grand Mosque of the pilgrims where they mimic “Tawaf” (circling the Kaaba seven times) as pilgrims to Mecca do. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Commonly pilgrims to Humaithera show devotion by practicing eccentric rituals like crafting talismans or breaking hexes around the shrine of Sheikh Abu Al-Hassan Al-Shazly. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Fawzi, who made the pilgrimage to Humaithera, says, “the revenue from the pilgrimage to Mecca should be used in religious purposes only, not in political agendas or killing opponents of the Saudi regime.” (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Part of the tradition is to climb the mountain of Humaithera as pilgrims to Mecca climb Arafat mountain. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Pilgrims collect stones from the mountain to build a pyramid shape installation to cast on it their wishes. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

By sunset, pilgrims gather on the highest point on the mountain and recite religious songs on the beat of drums and clapping hands. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Samar Mohamed, who came from Hurghada, finished her stone installation. She says, “I made a wish of getting married and having a better job.” (H. Elrasam/VOA)

During the night, pilgrims practice a Sufi ritual known as “Ziker,” when traditional bands play special Sufi music and recitations. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

During the ritual of “Ziker,” women are only allowed to watch from backstage. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

After finishing the Sufi ritual of Ziker, pilgrims can sleep anywhere, but men and women have to be separated. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Sufi Muslims believe that spending the first two hours after sunrise praying is the spiritual equivalent of a pilgrimage to Mecca. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

The pilgrimage to Humaithera Valley usually takes 10 days, but it is not all spent in worshiping, socializing in coffeeshops is very important for Egyptians. (H. Elrasam/VOA)

Sheikh Ahmed says, “there are some Sufis who have enough faith to Astral project spiritually to Mecca during Hajj, you will believe them when they tell you about details there as if they are seeing it happening now, and it's true"